Lyse Doucet: Under fragile ceasefire, Iranians wonder if US deal can be done

Lyse Doucet: Under Fragile Ceasefire, Iranians Wonder if US Deal Can Be Done

Amid the rolling hills of Iran’s northwest, where snow-draped mountains frame the landscape, springtime awakens almond trees into vibrant blossoms. A tenuous pause in hostilities has allowed more traffic to resume on the roads, easing the return of Iranians to their homeland. Yet, the lingering tension casts a shadow over the calm, as people recall the devastation of the recent conflict.

A Personal Toll of War

Standing in the departure area of a Turkish border crossing, a seasoned banker recounts his time in Turkey with his son. “I spent a month away from my city in the north,” he says, his voice carrying the weight of recent trauma. “The strikes mainly targeted military sites, not homes or civilian areas.” His remarks highlight the five-week ordeal that followed a two-week truce, now set to expire soon.

“I’m a bit scared,” admits an elderly woman in a headscarf, her lined face reflecting concern. She laments the toll on young Iranians, citing the destruction of residential neighborhoods and the threat posed by Iran’s Basij forces patrolling the streets.

Meanwhile, a younger woman in a bold red puffer jacket and knitted hat confidently states, “The ceasefire won’t last.” She emphasizes Iran’s determination to maintain control of the Strait of Hormuz, a strategic waterway central to global trade.

The Road to Tehran

As we navigate the 12-hour journey to Tehran—Turkey’s airports remain closed—the route is now altered by a detour through rural paths. The collapse of a vital bridge near Tabriz, damaged by missile fire, has forced vehicles to reroute. The road’s scars mirror the nation’s struggles, with each milestone a reminder of the war’s reach.

During this drive, Trump’s looming threat resurfaces. On Wednesday, he warned that the US could obliterate all of Iran’s bridges in an hour, alongside its power plants. “We don’t want to do that,” he added, though the specter of such destruction lingers.

War Crimes or Military Necessity?

Legal experts have voiced growing alarm over the targeting of civilian infrastructure, arguing it may violate international humanitarian law. Despite this, the US and Israel assert their strikes focus solely on military assets. We spot evidence of this, including the ruins of an Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps barracks, its skeletal remains marked by a massive flag.

Further along the route, other military bases, police stations, and factories lie in disarray. The war’s impact is felt in every corner, yet the resolve to press forward remains undimmed.

Legacy of Resistance and Resilience

At a roadside restaurant, a centuries-old caravanserai with stone arches and stained-glass windows, the echoes of Iran’s ancient civilization contrast sharply with its modern realities. Some women wear veils, while others, across all age groups, embrace a more liberated style—a symbol of the 2022-2023 Woman, Life, Freedom movement that defied strict modesty laws.

“Trump will never leave Iran alone; he wants to swallow us!” exclaims a man nearby, his tone brimming with defiance. His words resonate as we reflect on the nation’s resilience amid the war’s aftermath.

Iran’s theocracy faces a dual challenge: healing from the war’s devastation while navigating its historic ties with the US. Recent discussions in Islamabad, where a US delegation led by Vice President JD Vance met Iranian officials—including hardline Parliamentary Speaker Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf—revealed the stakes of a potential agreement. The talks aim to reconcile longstanding tensions over the nuclear program, alongside newer disputes like control of the Strait of Hormuz. The outcome could shape Iran’s future, even as its leaders remain steadfast in their vision for the nation’s security and sovereignty.